Information Sheet on Buying and Importing a bike from the U.K
Did you ever look through the small adverts In Motorcycle News, see a bike on offer that over here would be thought of as a bargain and think, "Wow! I wish I could get my hands on that!" Well with a bit of planning it’s actually easy to do. Not all bikes will be worth the trouble – in many cases the prices over there are as bad as here these days ! But if you do some research, will settle for a bike that’s a few years old and you’re willing to put a bit of effort into the plot you can return here with a bargain.
The Research
Target the type of bike you’re after some models just
aren’t worth the trouble. But the U.K. market is a fickle one and subject to
changes in fashion as far as bikes go. This is to the ‘Economists’ (read as
tightwads) advantage.
Firstly, once a bike is no longer "Flavour of the Month" in the U.K., the second hand value drops and the availability soars. We sometimes lag behind so it may still be regarded as desirable here. (Look at all the second hand imports sold in shops if you need evidence).
Secondly, they just don’t put up the mileage over there that we do here. It’s reckoned by some pundits that a yearly average for a modern machine (whatever that means) is a mere 3,000 miles. So, you may be surprised at the condition of the target bike and, the accessories on it (though they can detract from its value as much as add to it). Check out the price of the ‘Target bike’ in as many different places as possible. Magazines, papers, auctions, shops, private sales and even the internet. Some bikes even get a price difference depending if you look in the north or south of the U.K.
The Internet if you can access it is a brilliant research tool too. There’s a few online publications that will literally search out bikes for you (see web addresses at the end of this article). Others review many ‘bikes, their good points and more useful, their bad ones too. Club magazines and specialist bike groups are useful, though some think the prices higher among a group who already value a specific bike, you often find that any quirks on a ‘bike will be sorted before you buy it by an enthusiastic owner. A few ‘bikes spring to mind straight away here; BMW’s , Moto Guzzi’s, Yamaha FJ’s, Bandits, V.Maxes, Fireblades to mention a few.
After a few weeks you begin to get an idea of the right price for the bike. Source all the information you can on the model; road test re-prints, and magazine reviews. Personal web pages and discussion boards on the Internet are a mine of info. Talking to owners of the same bike is a help. Shop mechanics can tell you what it's like to work on and if it's got 'any bad habits' - by which I mean known bad points in its design. Certain Japanese bikes, for example, are known to have developed problems as the age and mileage rises; suspect charging systems, rear damper linkages prone to rapid wear and even (though as I write - this is only an "unsubstantiated allegation" at this stage) weak sub-frames! European bikes have their own foibles too; paint, chrome and electrics are the first that come to mind, though drive-shaft failure has happened to some unlucky owners. Even asking a breaker’s yard which parts they are most often asked for is useful. This can be crucial in getting a good ‘un or a bad ‘un. A little detective work pays off.
Once you’ve got all the relevant information then you can now actually pin it done to individual bikes. You’ve done all the homework now, so it’s time to put money where mouth is. This is when your calculations must be 100% accurate, one false move makes the whole plan pointless! But don’t panic, it’s easy if you plan your budget and work out all the expenditure before you go.
The trip
The exchange rate and travel costs;
While it will fluctuate, it rarely makes dramatic jumps between deciding and
arriving in the U.K. Check out the best routes to the bike you’ve chosen and
consider all options, boat/train, boat/coach,even ‘Plane / train.
V.R.T
The dreaded Vehicle Registration Tax. It’s not
as bad as it is thought to be – especially if you plan this properly. (See the
table at the end of this article).
Documentation
This must be absolutely squeaky clean! No big deal –
just look at the engine / frame numbers. The frame is the more important, it
is crucial to registering it over here.But if the engine number does not read
as it is supposed to the seller should have paperwork to explain why this is
so. Personally I would rather walk away and even come home without a bike at
all than take the chance of having it confiscated from me at point of entry
here as being a suspected stolen or written off and rebuilt bike.
The "Log Book", M.O.T certificates, service record receipts:
In the U.K it is far more common for a ‘bike to have
all of these kept up to date by the seller. It can be of great reassurance to
buy a machine with these if they can be reasonably expected to be accurate.
Many machines there classed as "Tourer, Off Roader, Learner, Classic"
etc. actually are solely used for their designated purpose. This means that
you are more likely to obtain a ‘bike with less mileage, in better condition
and professionally maintained than here, where we are far more pragmatic and
less likely to part with money when we think we can do the work ourselves and
lets be honest here – we often use and abuse our ‘bikes, giving them stress
they were never designed for on roads and in conditions the manufacturer could
never have imagined in his worst nightmare!
Shop Bought or Private Sale:
Both are feasible if you do your homework. But
it does take a bit of ‘Horse Trading’ skill to get the best deal. Shops can
be persuaded by phone / fax/ E.Mail to do lots of things to ensure you will
be happy with your purchase. Not the least of which is to give the ‘bike a fresh
M.O.T for example. Why you might ask is that any help over here? Well, it means
that all consumables will be in fairly good order at least. Tyres, chains, sprockets,
wheel, head-race swing arm bearings and bushes, lights, indicators – anything
that you would consider in a "P.O.W.E.R" check. There’s nothing worse
than buying a new ‘bike and then discovering you need to spend yet more money
on it. Shop bought means you do have some legal standing in the event of the
‘bike not being "of merchantable quality" - a term straight from Consumer
Law, guaranteed to worry most shop keepers, but a boon to the second-hand bike
buyer.
Dealers and private sellers alike are worried about getting lumbered with a ‘bike than no longer is looked upon as a ‘Trendy’ ‘bike. They will discount the price, add on sweeteners to get you to buy. It’s not unusual for a private seller in the north of England to be prepared to bring the ‘bike to Holyhead for you to view, if you at least offer to pay their expenses in the event that you don’t buy.
Plan "B"
You should always have a plan "B"! Never
go with only one machine in mind to buy. Look around the area you target. Unlike
here the sheer density of ‘bikes in a given area is huge. So, even if you reckon
you will buy the first bike you look at, it keeps the seller on his toes if
you turn up with a dog eared copy of M.C.N – complete with heavy ball point
pen marks around adverts for alternative bikes.
That’s all there is to it really. Once you've done the research, done your sums and sourced the bike - all you have to do now is get there and ride it home.
Do pay the V.R.T as soon as you reach this side of the water. The Revenue get really peeved if you don’t. They can confiscate the bike if they think you're avoiding them. But in my experience they are very reasonable to deal with - all they are concerned with is that you pay your dues "by the end of the next working day" of you having declared your entry into the State. You will know how much this is in advance, so you've no excuse. They have even been known to 'come to an arrangement' if you for some reason cannot pay up in full straightaway, but its better all round if you budget this figure in to the pre-trip planning. When you purchase the 'bike - keep the U.K. Logbbook! This makes the paperwork easier at this end, although it might baffle the seller in the U.K as he is supposed to send it to the U.K authorities in Swansea - but it makes no difference to the seller really.
Lastly, this whole experience can be a real buzz - there is nothing better than the sheer adventure of going over there, pitting your wits and your wallet against the marketplace and coming home a winner! The risk is minimal if you put the preparation into the scheme. But having said all that - you pays yer money and you takes yer chances! Good Luck!
Irish V.R.T Charges on secondhand bikes:
Two Euro per c.c. up to 350c.c. then One Euro
per c.c. above 350c.c.
A sliding scale is worked - dependent on the age of the 'bike. If, for example
you brought
in a 600c.c. bike that is 5 years old, this is what you pay:
Two Euro per c.c. up to 350c.c. = 700 Euro.
One Euro per c.c. above 350c.c.= 250 Euro.
Total = 950 Euro
Minus the age deduction of 70% = 285 Euro V.R.T to pay
Scale of reducing V.R.T Rate:
Years old:
1 - 2 year old = minus 20%
2 - 3 year old = minus 40%
3 - 4 year old = minus 50%
4 - 5 year old = minus 60%
5 - 7 year old = minus 70%
7 - 10 year old = minus 80%
10 years to 30 years old = minus 90%
Some
useful web addresses:
www.loot.com and www.biketrader.co.uk.are
useful for searching out bikes and giving ideas of prices expected.
Try http://umgweb.com for good
for reviews of older 'bikes - full of 'Real Life Experiences'.
Disclaimer:
This information sheet is provided free of charge as a service to motorcycling. MAG Ireland cannot accept any responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions. Last updated 2001-02 Approved by NEC: 2001-03